Explore the rise of chef-led bakeries
25 Sep 2024
Once relegated to the sidelines of a dinner as a mere accompaniment, bread is now taking center stage in the culinary world, often appearing as a standalone course. This shift reflects a broader trend of top chefs around the globe opening their own bakeries. From Amsterdam to Sydney, chef-led bakeries are celebrating the craftsmanship of baking and offering customers an accessible way to enjoy a chef’s culinary vision.
Broader audience for Michelin chef Bijdendijk
Joris Bijdendijk, the acclaimed executive chef behind the Michelin-starred restaurants RIJKS* and Wils*, was the first to venture into the world of bread in the Amsterdam culinary scene. He launched Wils Bakery Café in 2022, a seamless blend of a traditional bakery and a French-inspired bistro. The idea for the bakery was born during the pandemic when Bijdendijk began experimenting with selling bread and pastries, a venture that quickly gained popularity.
“We realized that there was a real demand for high-quality, handmade bread,” Bijdendijk explained. “So we went back to the drawing board and conceptualized a space where the craftsmanship of a bakery could meet the conviviality of a bistro.” The bread and patisserie that emerge from the café’s ovens are sold directly to consumers, but also find their way into the dishes served at Bijdendijk’s Michelin-starred establishment.
By selling bread and baked goods directly to consumers, Bijdendijk can reach a broader audience. People who might not be able to dine at his restaurants have a more affordable entry point at the Wils Bakery Café. Many chefs turned towards bakery products to create a new revenue stream during the pandemic, and – like Bijdendijk – have stuck to it ever since. It doesn’t just allow them to engage with a different customer base, but also to create products that can be scaled and distributed more widely. This not only enhances their brand visibility but also provides a stable source of income.
Consumers crave craftsmanship
It was also the Covid-19 pandemic that boosted the appreciation for artisan bread among consumers. Baking sourdough bread became a favorite pastime all over the world as consumers were confined to their homes with plenty of time at hand. Social media platforms flooded with tips on creating sourdough starters, scouring and the easiest recipes. This led to an increased interest for authentic bakery products that show craftsmanship. As consumers’ palates become more refined, there’s a growing demand for artisan products that offer something beyond mass-produced goods.
Fine dining restaurants no longer serve a bread basket as a filler, but offer a standalone bread course with luxurious butter. Bread is now considered as a celebrated component of a dinner that is worthy of its own place on the menu. But the process of creating those artisan loaves and rolls is very time consuming, sometimes taking up days. The Appalachian bread rolls pastry chef Michael Werrell serves at Audrey in Nashville (USA) go through about five employees before they’re picked by a server. They have to be bulk-fermented, degassed, shaped, proofed and baked, which requires a lot of handwork.
Not all chefs have a kitchen and kitchen staff large enough to have that level of control over the production process. That’s why in Athens, Nolan headchef Sotiris Kontizas expanded his culinary empire with Sweet Nolan, a bakery that blurs the lines between sweet and savory. Located just a stone's throw from his flagship restaurant, Sweet Nolan offers a range of pastries and breads that are both traditional and boldly experimental. Think of a cake roll with coconut cream, golden raspberry and lychee or chocolate cake with caramel, sandalwood and gianduja chocolate cream.
The hybrid concept
Chefs aren’t just opening up bakeries as an extension of a chef’s culinary philosophy, there are also venues that blur the line between bakery and restaurant altogether. Antara in Melbourne, Australia is such a bakery-restaurant hybrid. This all-day eatery receives guests all throughout the day, serving breads, pastries and breakfast in the mornings, lunch during the day and dinner menus in the evenings.
The sleek and moody industrial-style design of Antara centers around the 24 hour production of baked goods that is going on. The open kitchen shows the industrial baking machines and the wood-burning oven. This offers a spectacle not just for diners, but also for passers-by on the street. They witness the process of baking and creating pastries from start to finish and have the option to buy the creations from the cooling racks at the end of the production line. The act of baking not just heightens the ambiance of the venue, but also celebrates the required craftsmanship.
Want to discover more chef-led bakeries that are connecting with consumers in new and meaningful ways?
Then you should also check out:
Frea Bakery in Berlin (DE), an offshoot of the popular plant-based, zero-waste restaurant Frea
Louf in Amsterdam (NL), run by the owners of Café Binnenvisser, Cornerstore en Café Twee Prinsen
- Shadow Baking in Sydney (AU), opened by three Gelato Messina chefs
- Levain by Olivier Nasti in Kayserberg (FR), this 2-star Michelin chef has a classic boulangerie, ice cream shop and chocolate shop nearby his restaurant
New bakery by the Saga Hospitality Group in New York (USA), run by pastry che Renata Ameni - planned to open this year
